This cozy eatery evokes the 1920s, jammed as it is with bric-a-brac (even a stuffed pheasant) collected by owners Nikki Andriet and Dean Fletcher, who also run The Comrade nearby. The owner-designed space is a cross between a speakeasy and a general store. “We hope it feels like it’s been around for 100 years,” says Fletcher. It does, though an L-shaped, tiger-striped marble bar anchors the room to the here and now. The homemade fare matches the prohibition-era decor. On the menu, goods (a.k.a. booze) includes a bourbon list and old fashioned favourites such as, well, an Old Fashioned, while the limited daily dishes are described as provisions. Chef Sean Simons gives French bistro classics a tweak: Fish and chips, for example, may turn out to be sardines. Finding partridge on the specials board is another clue to his why-not approach. Patrons start packing in right at 6 p.m. No reservations.
By Doug Wallace
Photos by Naomi Finlay